Pitch Sheets

When you chose a print and are ready to send it to the mill for printing you need to 1.  confirm the scale or size of the print 2. make sure the print is in repeat. A typical print is done in a 25" screen repeat. Large prints can jump to 36" screen repeat size 3. Pitch your print into your desired colors... remember each color is it's own screen (and number of screens will add to your cost). Typically a print will be no more than 10 to 12 colors total for mass market. 

See attached image for an example of a pitch sheet. 

Finding Prints

Print and pattern in any collection can tie together a color story and help create a "mood" to support your pieces. Photo is Diane Von Furstenberg... a master with prints. If you need to find a print there are many ways to go about this.

1. See a Print studio. 

 there are lots of print studios that create original art.  You can set up individual appointments to see these studios or see the print shows that are held each season. The prints shows are a great way to get an overall feeling for print trends and see various studios. If you can, stop by and see the show next week : www.printsourcenewyork.com/show.cfm

2. Research Vintage

 Going to vintage stores, shows or archives are a great place to find unique prints. See link for NYC show (starts in 2 weeks!)

www.manhattanvintage.com

3. Shop fabric stores

 The only danger here is that you do not know where the print came from and therefore if it is copyright protected or not... If choosing a print from a store, it's best to alter the design before going into production so as to not infringe on any existing rights to it.

Once you select a print, you will then need to select the base fabric, be sure the print is in "repeat" and "pitched" for colors. Once this is complete your print is sent off to the printers for a "strike off". A strike off is a printer's 1st attempt at the print (usually a small amount)  in order to gain approval prior to proceeding to the full amount of yardage needed.

Fashion Illustration

A Fashion illustration is any illustration or rendering that conveys a garment or style... it can be very precise and realistic or very vague. The end use or purpose of the drawing should dictate the style used. For example, if the illustration is to help a buyer visualize the collection or for advertising a garment, the drawing should be accurate to proportion, color and fabric. If it's a illustration more for the mood or style point of view (for say a magazine) then the drawing can be less literal. 

In school, students are taught to draw fashion figures at a scale of 8 or 9 heads. This means if your head is say 1 inch long then the total figure would be 8 or 9 inches depending on your preference. I personally usually fall around 9. 

Fashion Illustrations... be inspired!

There is a great new book out for those looking to get inspired and see a little of illustration's history. "100 Years of Fashion Illustration"  shows various artists and styles over the decades... real eye candy. It will inspire you to get drawing!

Flat sketching

In school, they really don't spend enough time teaching flat sketching.  

A "flat" is the technical rendering of a garment that is shown to the pattern maker and featured in the "technical package" or "tech pack".  A good flat indicates proportion, construction, stitching details and overall aesthetic of a garment.  From a good flat a pattern maker or "technical designer" should be able to accurately advise all "specs" in order to make an accurate first sample. As an assistant designer starting in the industry, a strong ability in flat sketching is essential as this is a key responsibility in that role.

Start with proportion. Usually, a flat is done in a size 8 or size 10 proportion. The flat should looks as if you took the garment and spread it flat on the table. Flats can be drawn by hand or on the computer... often using adobe illustrator.

example of a good flat

This flat was drawn on adobe illustrator. Notice each side is perfectly symmetrical, all topstitching is indicated clearly, you see the shape of the neckline & armhole clearly, and the drawstring tunnel at waist. The draw cord is left untied so the pattern maker can see the spacing between the eyelet's the cord comes out of.

If drawing by hand, don't be lazy... use a ruler and keep all your lines straight. Usually, a thicker line pen is used for the outer edges and seams and a finer line is used on topstitching and buttons.

Specs

What is a "spec"? A spec is a "size specification"or a measurement on a garment. There are many measurements on a garment that indicate to a pattern maker how to make a garment. A list of these measurements is called a "spec sheet". A spec sheet is a key page in a "tech pack" or "technical package".  A company will usually set standard "specs" as a guideline for a size to ensure consistency in fit. Once these standards are set, measurements are "graded" down (to say a size 2) and up (to say a size 16). Standard specs are usually determined by 1) the fit model chosen for a brand 2) market research on the fit of the competition and 3) customer feedback. 

Tech Packs

What is a "tech pack"? A "technical package" that serves as documentation on a garment. A tech pack will include the following information: a flat sketch, a detailed sketch (if needed), all fabric information, color or print information, all trim information, construction required, all "specs", intended size range and even target a target cost. The more detailed your information the better your first sample will be. Understand also, in many factories there will be a language barrier... an image is worth a thousand words! this is why the flat must be perfect. and give as many images as possible. Tech packs are often now done on computer in either a template the company has created or in more advanced systems like "WEB pdm". WEBpdm is a system most of the industry uses where many people from offices all over the world can have access to their brand's tech packs as a live document. Usually set up by design as initial development, a tech pack lives on through fittings and into production where it is usually taken over by other departments to manage.

www.wfxondemand.com/Web-PDM-fashion-apparel.aspx

Color Services

Color. Every season starts with the question "what is the new must have color this season?" Usually designers have their own instinct for this... they get tired of last year's pallet and are ready to move on to something that looks "fresh". There are companies, however, that focus solely on color and color forecasting to lend a hand. Usually a year (and sometimes more!) in advance they provide colors they feel are directional for Fashion, Home... you name it. Once colors are selected, usually these "standards" are named or numbered and sent off to be "lab dipped" in your fabrics. 

Lab Dips

What is a "lab dip"? A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. Several lab dips may be submitted for feedback until the standard is achieved and the lab dip is approved. Lab dips are reviewed in a "light box". A light box is a machine where the interior is painted a neutral colorless grey (as to not skew the color of the dip) and has several options of light under which you can see your dip. Usually a company will select one light source (for example "daylight") as it's standard so both factory and home office see the lab dips under the same source.  The person responsible for reviewing lab dips will then give comments such as "too dark, too red, make lighter, more green" until the standard is achieved. There is also now a machine used to read lab dips called a "spectrometer"  which will give the same feedback. As not everyone sees color as well as the next (and you can be tested to see how well you see color) a machine can take out human error.